Field Notes from 45 Prefectures

Writing & dispatches
from across Japan.

Firsthand guides, hidden history, and insider food notes from places most people will never go. Published on Substack as I travel — subscribe to get new pieces as they land.

Powder skiing in Japan
Published · Winter · Ski

Japan: A Ski Destination Like No Other

A dispatch from the powder runs and onsen towns that make Japan one of the great ski destinations on earth — well beyond the Niseko headlines.

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Evan at the Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum
Published · Heritage Travel

Japan's Port of Humanity:
Why Tsuruga is worth a visit.

The story of Chiune Sugihara, the Jewish refugees who passed through Tsuruga, and why this quiet port city on the Sea of Japan deserves a place on every thoughtful traveler's itinerary.

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Neapolitan-style pizza in Japan
Published · Food

Japan's Pizza Revolution:
Why some of the world's best pizza is in Japan.

How Japan took Neapolitan pizza, applied its obsessive craft culture, and created something that rivals — and in some cases surpasses — the original.

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Forthcoming dispatches

Two in the works
Coming Soon Northeast Japan

The New Golden Route: Why Tohoku Should Be Your Next Japan Trip

Ancient festivals, pristine nature, world-class sake, and none of the crowds. Japan's northeast is the best-kept secret in travel right now.

Coming Soon Cycling

Biking the Shimanami Kaido: The World's Most Beautiful Cycling Road

70km across six islands and six bridges connecting Hiroshima to Ehime. Everything you need to know to do it right — including where to eat along the way.

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